Food & Culture

Recipes for Rascals in Distant Cities: Greens

      Well, you are out there, now, making it happen, Biggies on the Go. Meanwhile your poor old dad is left back home, doing the best he can with an excellent life of discovery, self-expression, moderate exercise, and delicious, (mostly) healthy food. What do I have left to teach you both? As in […]

Into the Tallow End

        Maybe it sat on the sill of your mother’s kitchen window near the sink. Or perhaps it lodged in an old tin coffee can on your back porch. Wherever it resided, this pale-colored solid, speckled with bits of meat floating below a film of watered residue, was the leftover that would […]

Our Current Saga of Eggs

      “A cynic is someone who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing,” Oscar Wilde taught us. But in our current crisis of egg prices, have we learned anything? Chickens and eggs have been on the menu of civilizations worldwide so long they have transcended their long-held status of dietary […]

The Headband Makes a Comeback

    Awful, that I had forgotten all about Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, wife of John F. Kennedy Jr. and killed alongside him in that horrific plane crash. She was thirty-three years old. Also stunning, and a former publicist for Calvin Klein. Now I read that in one of fashion’s weird spirals, she has become, posthumously, a […]

Winnie the Pooh Would Have Loved This

    “There aren’t many bees in here,” Jim says. I gulp. His wife and honey-marketer, Amy, did tell me to wear long sleeves and long pants, but where is my beekeeper costume, with the fancy netting-draped hood? I start to feel tiny pinpricks down my arm, as though I am already being stung. I […]

Why Food Is Less Healthy and Less Tasty

    I slice an organic heirloom tomato onto my club sandwich and anemoia engulfs me. My grandpa fed seven kids by opening a tiny grocery store that delivered to the West End mansions, no doubt in an old Model T pulled round to the servants’ entrance. I grew up hearing about the freshest produce […]

Invent a New Kind of Femininity

    There is an article in The New Yorker about Miranda July, whom I have never read. She sounds interesting, so I zip along, half-skimming—then skid to a stop. She is reading the notes she wrote for her new novel, All Fours, to the reporter. Here is one from 2018: “Thinking about what aging […]

Unexpected Mardi Gras Moments in St. Louis

      I think of French influence in St. Louis the way I think of the Romans’ influence in Britain: Other than naming, most of that culture has disappeared. St. Louis certainly “brands” with the ubiquitous fleurs-de-lis, and the landmark statue of Louis IX, sculpted by a German-American artist, at the top of Art […]

When Kitsch Collides With Food (And Spirits)

        Andy Warhol once said he loved Coca-Cola because regardless of who bought a bottle, it remained the same product for everyone. “A Coke is a Coke and no amount of money can get you a better Coke than the one the bum on the corner is drinking. All the Cokes are […]

The Exuberant Joy of British Kids Eating U.S. Thanksgiving Food

        Before misinformation, disinformation, Facebook’s Cambridge Analytica fiasco, and “deep fakes” it is hard to remember the time when the internet was a (largely) uncorrupted landscape of novel, good-hearted fun. From cat videos to laughing babies, everyone had their favorites when the internet was still young. The slow-moving genre loosely known as […]